Zion National Park: Canyon Trails and a Kolob Canyons Sunrise

For anyone who hasn't explored the canyon country of the American Southwest, our advice is simple: go and see it for yourself. The scale of the sandstone cliffs and the way the landscape changes from one canyon to the next are difficult to appreciate until you're standing among them.

Zion has long been near the top of our list of national parks. This was my fourth visit, and the canyon was every bit as absorbing as I remembered. During our stay in St. George, Utah, we managed two very different outings: an afternoon in Zion's busy main canyon and an early-morning trip to the quieter Kolob Canyons district, near Interstate 15.

Lunch in Springdale Before the Park

We began our main-canyon visit with a quick lunch at Whiptail Grill in Springdale, just outside Zion's south entrance. The restaurant serves burgers alongside Mexican and Southwestern dishes, and with the canyon walls rising behind the building, it's an easy place to get into the Zion frame of mind before even entering the park.

We all went for the Mexican side of the menu. The homemade tamales and spaghetti squash enchiladas were both well received, but I thought my goat cheese-stuffed chile relleno had the edge. The breaded pepper arrived on a plate covered with colorful swirls of sauce, and it tasted as good as it looked. It was a satisfying start to an afternoon that would involve more walking than driving.

A Scenic Detour and a Full Parking Lot

Because we were visiting on a Thursday in late September, we thought we might be able to drive beyond the visitor center and find parking farther into the park. That plan lasted only until we reached the junction with Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. During shuttle season, the road leading past Zion Lodge and toward the Narrows is closed to most private vehicles; visitors generally use the park's shuttle buses instead.

Rather than turn straight into the visitor center, we continued along Utah State Route 9, the Zion–Mount Carmel Highway. It climbs out of the Virgin River canyon on a series of curves and switchbacks, opening up views of pale and red sandstone high above the valley floor. The massive cliffs are made largely of Navajo Sandstone, formed from ancient desert dunes that were later uplifted and carved by water. It's a landscape that rewards even a short scenic drive.

We would have enjoyed continuing toward the park's eastern side, but the afternoon was already slipping away. After reaching one of the road's higher viewpoints, we turned around and made our way back to the visitor center.

So much for the idea that shoulder season would guarantee easy parking. Even on a Thursday, we spent a few minutes circling like vultures before spotting someone preparing to leave. Once we had the car tucked into a legal space, we boarded one of Zion's articulated shuttle buses and headed into the canyon.

Back to the Narrows—Without Getting Wet

We rode to the last stop, the Temple of Sinawava, where the paved Riverside Walk follows the Virgin River for about a mile before reaching the entrance to the Narrows. Beyond that point, the river itself becomes the trail. Hikers wade upstream between increasingly tall and closely spaced sandstone walls, sometimes through knee-deep water and sometimes much deeper, depending on conditions.

We weren't planning a river hike this time. Instead, we enjoyed the canyon views and watched the steady exchange of hikers at the water's edge. Some were adjusting their water shoes and walking sticks before setting off upstream. Others were returning, wet and laughing, some already barefoot as they made their way back toward the shuttle.

My wife reminded me of our own Narrows adventure several years earlier. We had made it roughly 300 feet upstream when I managed to drop our mirrorless camera directly into the chilly Virgin River. The canyon was just as spectacular that day, but our photographic record of the hike came to an abrupt end. On this visit, we kept our camera dry and were content to admire the scene from the river's edge.

For anyone planning to hike the Narrows, the National Park Service's Narrows guide is essential reading. River flow, flash-flood potential, cold water, and cyanobacteria advisories can all affect whether entering the river is safe.

Waterfalls at Lower Emerald Pool

Before leaving the park, we made one more stop at Zion Lodge and walked the Lower Emerald Pool Trail. The roughly 1.2-mile round-trip route is mostly paved, although the surface is uneven in places and there are slopes and drop-offs to watch for.

Recent rain had made the walk especially worthwhile. As we approached the broad sandstone overhang, we found three separate, thin waterfalls spilling from the ledge above. The trail passes beneath the overhang and behind the falling water. We picked up only a few drips as we walked through, but the sound of water and the view back out toward the canyon made it a memorable finish to our afternoon.

The waterfalls here are seasonal rather than guaranteed. After a dry stretch, there may be little more than a damp rock face. The park's trail descriptions are helpful for choosing among the Lower, Middle, and Upper Emerald Pools routes and checking their relative difficulty.

Sunrise in Kolob Canyons

On a separate morning, we set our alarms early for a different side of Zion. From our hotel in St. George, the drive to the park's Kolob Canyons entrance took about half an hour. This northwestern section of Zion is accessed from Exit 40 on Interstate 15 rather than through Springdale, and it has a noticeably different rhythm from the main canyon.

We drove the five-mile Kolob Canyons Scenic Drive in the predawn darkness, taking only quick note of the enormous rock formations appearing beside the road. Our destination was the Timber Creek Overlook Trail at the end of the drive, and we wanted to arrive in time for first light.

It had rained overnight, so the reddish dirt trail was freshly tamped down rather than dusty. We followed the short ridge-top path to a rocky outcrop, where the view opened across jagged sandstone cliffs to the east and forested valleys extending south and west. The cloud-filled sky was beginning to brighten, but much of the landscape was still in shadow.

On a clear day, the National Park Service says visitors can see as far as Mount Trumbull, near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, roughly 100 miles away. I couldn't confidently pick it out on the horizon, but we had plenty to look at closer to us. We lingered as the sun began to appear above the sandstone, illuminating patches of rock and trees across the valley.

The Timber Creek Overlook Trail is only about 1.2 miles round trip, but its dirt-and-rock surface has uneven sections and can become muddy after rain. We had enough time for the overlook, not for one of the longer hikes that descend into the Kolob canyons. Those would have to wait for another visit.

On the drive back, we finally slowed down at some of the roadside pullouts we'd passed in the dark. A quick stop at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center, which had just opened for the morning, rounded out our visit. Then it was back down Interstate 15 toward St. George, where more coffee and breakfast were calling.

Travel Tips for Visiting Zion from St. George

• Plan around the shuttle. During most of the year, Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is closed to private vehicles. The free park shuttle provides access to the main trailheads, but parking at the visitor center can fill even on weekdays in September. Check the current shuttle schedule and consider parking in Springdale if the park lot is full.
• Treat the Narrows as a river hike, not a conventional trail. The paved Riverside Walk is a good outing on its own. Continuing into the river requires appropriate footwear and close attention to water and weather hazards.
• Don't count on waterfalls at Emerald Pools. Water flow depends on recent precipitation. The Lower trail is paved but uneven, so check trail access details rather than assuming a smooth, fully accessible walk.
• Visit Kolob Canyons separately. The entrance is off I-15, not on the main Zion Canyon road. There is no shuttle in this district, and the scenic drive can close in winter weather. Check current park conditions before setting out, particularly for an early start.
• Carry your park pass. Zion's entrance requirements apply to both the main canyon and Kolob Canyons. Confirm the latest fees and passes before your visit.

Two Sides of Zion

Our afternoon in Zion Canyon was busy, with full parking lots, shuttle buses, and plenty of other visitors enjoying the trails. Kolob Canyons offered something quite different: a predawn drive, a short hike on damp red dirt, and room to stand quietly and watch the landscape emerge in the morning light.

Both outings were worth fitting into our St. George stay. And if you're traveling Interstate 15 through southwestern Utah without time for the main park, the Kolob Canyons turnoff is an easy detour to justify. Even a short drive and walk to the overlook provide a good introduction to the scenery that keeps drawing us back to Zion.